The secret to Rome

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Rome gets millions of visitors a year, and with so much to see, it’s hardly surprising. Most of them, however, follow the same route from the Colloseum to the Forum, posing for the same pictures that have been taken a thousand times before them. But if you’re considering a trip to Rome in 2013, don’t fall into the tourist traps. Here are a few of the best-kept secrets to help you get off the tourist trail and to the best parts of the city:

 

See the view from Aventine Hill

aventine_hill_by_ amandabullock

Many of the ancient ruins in Rome are so well known that they are over-run with visitors. But the most famous aren’t always the most beautiful, or the most interesting, and a trip up to Aventine Hill will show you that. See the Square of the Knights of Malta, a collection of quaint little churches, and the orange garden. But the real reason to venture up the hill isn’t for the peace and quiet; it’s for the staggering view through one special ancient keyhole. Ask the priests who reside in the area to direct you to this secret spot.

 

Tour the Vatican Gardens

If you find yourself visiting these manicured gardens, you’ll be surprised they’re not busier. But that is because only those who plan in advance and book tickets are lucky enough to gain access. With fortifications, grottoes, monuments and fountains from anywhere between the 9th century and the present day, there’s much to see and the magical gardens make an excellent spot for an afternoon wander.

 

Try Rome’s finest “pick me up”

Tiramisu, which literally translates as “pick me up”, is possibly the most famous Italian dessert. The secret here is the place that produces the best versions of it in all of Rome. Bar Pompi, near the Re di Roma metro, is still largely a locals’ spot, but once you’ve tasted one of these delicious sweets, you’ll be sending any visitor you encounter in the café’s direction. And you might find yourself needing to make more than one visit, as they produce a variety of flavours of tiramisu, which even includes Pina Colada.

 

Visit San Giovanni in Laterano

St. Peter’s is the most famous church in Rome, but the secret is that it isn’t actually the most important or religiously significant. That role is fulfilled by the oldest Basilica in Rome, the beautiful San Giovanni in Laterano. The building is huge, which its comparative emptiness will only exaggerate, and the architecture is captivating. It is actually here the that the Pope must officiate church before he’s considered the leader of the Catholic Church, so make sure you pay the original Vatican a visit!

 

Do the big sights by night

rome_at_night_by_IKsWorldTrip

Several tour companies offer night tours of Rome, and this is a great way to do all the tourist hot spots while avoiding the heat and chaos of the middle of the day. Many of the best buildings, like the Colloseum and the Forum, are lit up beautifully at night, and there’s nothing like darkness to make the mystery of some of the historical sights come to life. What could be more romantic than the Trevi Fountain by moonlight?

 

Explore a different neighbourhood

If you’re looking for young Italy, where locals are full of life and things are constantly changing, take a trip to San Lorenzo. This suburb is just outside the center of Rome, but will offer you a window into a totally different world from the one you can see from the tour bus. Street art and pop up cafés are popular here, as are “festino” street parties. Rome is so dense with history, it’s easy to forget that it is still very much a living and breathing city. But this neighbourhood is sure to remind you!

 

photos by amandabullock and IK’s World Trip

Preveza, Greece – a perfect place for a family holiday

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pantokrator_mountain_greece_by_sanderovski

Many people head off from the UK to places like Greece, Turkey and Cyprus during July and August. However, unless you really love the baking heat, this isn’t the best time of year to go – especially if you have young children with you.

Going to a Greek resort in the middle of summer can actually turn out to be a bit of an endurance test as the heat can be too much to bear. Midday siestas are almost obligatory to make sure the children don’t get sunburnt or suffer from sunstroke, and if all they want to do is to be by the pool or on the beach, you could have some battles on your hands.

An alternative is to go to Greece during the spring or autumn. Make the most of the Easter school holidays or the October half term and enjoy everything that Greek resorts have to offer, but in less punishing heat.

For example, you can find some great Preveza Greece holidays at those times with a number of different holiday companies.

Preveza is a Greek mainland resort on the Adriatic Sea at the mouth of the Ambracian Gulf. Staying there gives you easy access to northern Greece and Aktion, an important archaeological site. There’s now a tunnel that makes getting to Aktion much easier than it used to be. The town of Preveza has some lovely beaches nearby and the tourism there moves at a gentle pace – this town hasn’t turned itself over to tourism completely like many other Greek resorts have.

As well as the beaches, the old town is interesting and beautiful. It has a history of Greek, French, Turkish and Venetian influences. Many streets are closed to traffic and it’s a nice place to wander around. Landmarks to explore include the Kastro near the waterfront, St George’s Castle and the Pantokrator.

Aktion is across the gulf from Preveza and you can visit the ruins of what was once a massive fortress. The theatre and Byzantine walls still remain, and there are the ruins of Roman baths to explore.

Preveza offers a great mix of culture and traditional Greek seaside town, with some lovely beaches to spend time on too. It’s just one of many resorts in Greece that you’ll get even more out of if you avoid visiting during the really hot summer months.

Croatia – finding the road less traveled along the Dalmatian coast

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Croatia is becoming increasing popular as a summer holiday retreat. Despite its fairly recent civil war, this country is thriving with tourism. But even with the sudden interest in Croatian holidays, less convenient travel and distance from other popular European hotspots have helped this small country remain a fairly hidden gem of the Adriatic.

The obvious favourite for visitors continues to be Dubrovnik, in the south of Croatia. This gorgeous old town on the coast shouldn’t be missed. But if you’re looking for some ideas for a less touristy look at Croatia, try a few of these destinations north of Dubrovnik.

Pag Island

Pag Island Harbor Croatia

Only a 30 minute drive across from Zadar in the north, Pag Island has something for everyone. The mix of cultures, old and new, along with the unparalled music and nightlife scene at Zrce Beach, make this a great place to spend a few days. The best way is to rent a car and drive onto the island. During the day, winding roads offer beautiful scenic views and allow you to access smaller, more private beaches outside of town. At night explore Novalja or catch a ride to Zrce to dance the night away with famous DJs and Euro travellers.

Rab Island

Rab is another island in the north of Croatia worth exploring. Unlike Pag, you’ll need to grab a ferry – about 10 minutes, and you can take the car too. Also unlike Pag, Rab is truly an undiscovered jewel, covered in beautiful oak and pine forests, surrounded by clean, quiet waters. Old Rab is the main town, a quaint village-like atmosphere and great for exploring narrow alleys and streets. Come here to relax and possibly get pampered at one of the island’s spas. But you won’t really find a “party” here – chances are slim that you’ll stumble late night into a bar full of English speakers.

Exploring other islands

Croatia has over a thousand islands, making it a dream to explore on boat. While renting a personal boat may be out of your reach, a visit to Croatia wouldn’t be complete without at least one island visit. For the younger party crowd, Yacht Week is an option – while not a secret, it’s a great way to discover some of the most picturesque islands of the Dalmatian coast. The Northern Route, which is newer and less popular, is your best bet if you like breathing room.

Rovinj

Rovinj is a picturesque coastal mainland town on the Istrian peninsula with an Italian vibe. This is another option that’s less party, with lots of winding paths and gorgeous streets. The coast here is beautiful, and the seafood is definitely worth a try – in general, seafood in Croatia is spectacular, for obvious reasons.

Natural Beauty

If you get bored of towns and want a little more natural beauty, let your adventurous spirit sing in one of Croatia’s inland national parks. Plitvice Lakes National Park isn’t too far from Zagreb and can keep you occupied for days, or stop in for a quicker visit at Krka Falls outside of Split.

Dalmatian Coast, Croatia – Cosmos Holidays

No matter what destinations you decide on within Croatia, you will not regret a trip to the Dalmatian coast to discover the region’s unparalleled rugged natural beauty. Be sure to search around for cheap holiday deals to make the most of your money.

 

The Best Hippie Trail Travel Destinations

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The Best Hippie Trail Travel Destinations

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Starting in the early 1960s, thousands of (predominantly young) travellers began a mythical journey eastwards in search of new adventures and a different lifestyle. Some European travel agencies capitalised on the opportunity and began to ply the route with private buses. However, the hippie trail par excellence saw independent travellers hitchhike and use local public transportation around the spectacular (and sometimes dangerous) roads of the Middle East and Asia.



The hippie trail came to an abrupt end in 1979, due to the political situation in Iran, the Middle East, and Afghanistan. However, it can be said that fifty years later, the spirit of adventure that motivated many to go on this inspirational journey is alive and kicking. Here’s a rundown of five of the best hippie travel trail destinations.





1-Istanbul, Turkey



The Istanbul of the 1970s, that spellbinding city so aptly described in Omar Pamuk’s novels, is today a delightful mixture of modernity and tradition that will not disappoint any traveller avid for adventure. The area around Sultanhamet will transport visitors to a bygone era, with its charming old buildings and alleys. Suddenly, visitors find themselves in front of the splendorous Bosphorus, where you can sit in one of the many sea-facing coffee shops and enjoy a puff of narguile.



Istanbul can be reached from the UK overland or with one of the several flights run by discount airlines.



Azadegan Teahouse, Isfahan, Iran

2- Tehran, Iran



Resting at the foot of the imposing Alborz mountains is Tehran, a city that has changed much since the beginnings of the hippie trail. In the 1970s, Tehran was the capital of one of the most prosperous countries in the region. Growth and development were halted by the events that followed the Islamic Revolution, and today, this bustling metropolis of 14 million people is a little-known destination with much to discover.



The city is dotted with ancient Persian palaces, art museums, bazaars, and coffee shops serving exquisite local delicacies, like halva or rose water-flavoured ice cream.





3- Goa, India



The state of Goa, located on India’s western coast, was a favourite winter destination among travellers who were on the hippie trail, thanks to its warm climate and laid-back lifestyle. Goa presents visitors with a unique mix of Indian and Portuguese culture, interesting museums, uncrowded beaches, old forts, and flea markets. 



Goa is well connected to the UK via charter flights.





4- Kathmandu, Nepal



Kathmandu has always been surrounded by an aura of mysticism. The Nepalese capital has changed substantially since the days of the hippie trail, as today is a very popular Asian destination that offers tourists every service imaginable. However, arriving in Kathmandu by road from neighbouring India is an experience as nerve-wracking as it was in the old days, as battered buses zig zag dangerously along incredibly narrow roads.



Once in town, the extraordinary calmness of Buddhist temples and the hustle of this growing capital combine to create a unique atmosphere. One could spend days just sitting in streetside cafes, sampling the numerous examples of Asian cuisine and sipping countless cups of tea, but if you do get tired of the city, Kathmandu is the perfect gateway to the Himalayas, which are as awe-inspiring today as they were fifty years ago.





5- Luang Prabang, Laos



The Far East was considered the ultimate destination by hippie trail connoisseurs. Names like Bangkok, Hanoi, and Burma still resonate strongly with adventure seekers. The town of Luang Prabang, in central Laos, also saw its fair share of hippie trail travellers. Luang Prabang has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage City, thanks to its privileged location on the banks of two rivers, its carefully preserved teak houses, and the stunning and exuberant nature that surrounds the city.

Rest and Relaxation on Phi Phi Island

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No matter how light your backpack might feel that first day you wear it, after months of travel every time you have to put it on will cause deep groans of displeasure. No one was designed to carry their worldly possessions on their back and that’s a fact! Backpacking is one of the best life experiences that people can have – cramming yourself onto buses with an ungodly amount of other people, haggling over the smallest amount to get the cheapest hotel room possible and eating unidentifiable food simply because it doesn’t break your budget. What doesn’t kill you makes you stronger!

There are times though after long periods of travel and being pedantically frugal that you stop and think ‘you know what – I deserve a treat’. Thailand’s island of Phi Phi Don is just the place for that treat. There are a number of beautiful beachside resorts catering to those lucky enough to already be enjoying cheap holiday deals. It’s not difficult to find a reasonably priced room in one of these resorts where you can shrug off your backpack, take a long warm shower and sleep in the most comfortable bed you have found in months.

Phi Phi is located a 45 minute ferry ride off the coast of Phuket on the Krabi Coast of Thailand. If you haven’t heard other travellers ranting and raving about how amazing it is, then you can’t have been listening hard enough. Phi Phi is the Thai island that everyone dreams of. No roads means you get welcome respite from the manic Thai traffic and the beaches, surrounded by limestone kaarsts are breathtakingly beautiful. The infrastructure of the island was almost completely destroyed in the 2004 tsunami but brave and determined locals and tourists have very nearly restored it to its original state.

The island is surrounded by warm, crystal clear water and practically untouched coral reefs which mean that diving and snorkelling are often the activities of choice. Many arrive here and, if they aren’t pressed for time, can spend a week or two just chilling out and regaining their strength for their onward travels. Phi Phi is just the spot to make the most of a healing Thai massage which will relieve any of those stubborn aches and pains that backpackers are so prone to.

It’s not all about relaxation – Phi Phi has quite the party scene! Although nowhere near as hardcore as Koh Phangnan, where the notorious Full Moon Party is held, Phi Phi more than stands its ground in the party stakes. There are a number of late night bars where you can drink and dance the night away.

On your travels you will stumble upon a number of places that make you want to stick around. Hopefully your itinerary will be flexible enough so that when moments like this arise, you can put your bags down and really get to know a place. Thailand is a wonderful place to spoil yourself without spending too much of your valuable cash.

photo by Darcy McCarty

Getting to Florence on a shoestring

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Back in 1982 when I was doing my third and final year at art school I decided, along with a good friend, who was to become my working partner for the next 25 years, to go and visit Florence in Tuscany.  If I were doing this now I’d be searching online for cheap car hire. But back then we were both penniless students so the only way to do this was to book ourselves a European student rail card and find ourselves a tent. The tent, a rather moth-eaten exhibit that had clearly seen better days, was kindly lent to us by another friend who assured us that it could accommodate two adults quite comfortably. Since the friend was one of the tallest in our year, we took him at his word and blithely assumed that it would provide ample room for two reasonably short blokes. So off we went with our rucksacks.

If memory serves me right, the first train we boarded was at Charing Cross. From here we set off for Dover and thereon hopped on the ferry to Calais. From Calais we had a great deal of trouble finding the right train to take us to Milan via France and Switzerland. But exhausted, we finally located a large, grey, dusty hunk of train that belonged to the Italian State Railway. This looked promising, so having lugged our sizeable rucksacks (which weren’t much smaller than their owners) all this way, we finally boarded the train that would take us to Milan. Once inside, we were both pleasantly surprised. The carriages were large and relatively opulent, compared to their feeble English counterparts. We slid open one of the solid doors, shut it behind us with a reassuring clunk and plonked ourselves down.

It was the first time I’d been on an Italian train, and I have to say that I was jolly impressed. The carriage was spacious, had rather comfortable leather seats with foot rests that could be pulled out to rest tired feet. Better still, we had this space all to ourselves. When the train began to move it did so gracefully and noiselessly. It positively glided. This was our home for the remainder of the day and night and we both slept like two proverbial logs. In the morning we woke up in the Swiss lakes. There could be no nicer place on earth to wake up and feel alive. The views were breathtakingly glorious. When we finally arrived at Milan, we were both sorry leave to the comfort of our temporary home.

The next Italian train was an altogether different experience. Its carriages were smaller and grubbier, and its seats far less comfortable. Worse still, it was packed to the gills with people; and when it finally decided to move it did so falteringly. In fact, it’s the only train I’ve ever been on that would crawl along for a couple of miles, stop and then reverse for half a mile, before continuing in the same vein. The entire journey was like this, and it took what seemed like an eternity to get to Florence. But arrive we eventually did.

I seem to remember that we walked in the searing midday sun all the way from the station to the small campsite situated close to the Piazza de Michelangelo. And of course, it was here that we finally discovered that the tent was barely large enough to accommodate the average sized pigmy. Needless to say, I have never been camping since.

Alex Pearl is a freelance copywriter and author of the teen novel, ‘Sleeping with the Blackbirds.’ His royalty goes to Centrepoint, the UK charity for homeless youngsters. Alex also writes this blog: http://rhubarbrabbit.blogspot.com  

Photo by Argenberg

Convenience Can Come At a Price Now And Then

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Bayon, Siem Reap, Cambodia, baby

As a dad to a toddler, I am learning every day what works for us as a family traveling the world. “what works” is a fluid term, as it changes by the month. What Cole can be pushed to handle, and what he expects from us is regularly being upgraded. At this point in our parenting lives, we have come to grips with the idea that we are going to pay more for travel than we did before, but in ways that surprised us.

In many ways, having a child traveling is like having a VIP pass through airline queues, being favored through immigration (who wants to sit there processing paperwork with a baby bawling beside them?). There are many ways that having a child this young has sped our travel experience up quite a bit. However, one must abandon the idea that you can reasonably haggle a decent taxi fare when you are on the other side of an overland border crossing. If the driver says it’s ten bucks and you know it should only cost four, but your toddler is screaming the blood curdling scream of death beside you, guess what? You are making one tuk-tuk driver extremely happy on that day.

The bottom line is, at some point, we knew we were paying for convenience. Getting around this has been a challenge for me, as someone who doesn’t want to give up on haggling for what I think it a fair price, and also doesn’t want to stress about our budget. We’ve looked into travel tours, which is the ultimate in “paying for convenience” as you pay one fee, and all thinking is done for you. In most cases, you just show up where you need to be at an appointed time, and all planning, thinking and transportation is done for you. It’s great for those with money to burn but without the mental energy to put into forming an itinerary, and believe me, it’s attractive. The problem is, it takes power away from us parents to be able to drop everything wholesale once we know Cole has been pushed to far.

Believe me, we have not gone to more places than many people go to in their lives, all because it wasn’t in Cole’s best interest to push, just for the satisfaction of saying that we have been to a place. These package tours will be a great option for us at some point, but Cole is too young for us to take advantage of it as I type this.

I don’t want to scare anyone from traveling with their kids. It’s unbelievably rewarding to experience the world with him, and I would not change a thing. I just know it’s important to keep his needs as our top priority, and at his age, this means ponying up a little more money than I would otherwise have the freedom to haggle for. I promise you though, you will not regret a penny spent traveling with your kids when you know that you have looked after them and made their journey as comfortable and exciting as you can possibly provide.

The ride is pure bliss.

CILT in 25-year push for more cyclists on the roads of Britain

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The next 25 years could see a surge in popularity in cycling on the streets of Britain as the president of the Chartered Institute of Logistics and Transport (CILT) has called for increased participation and awareness of keeping fit and helping the environment.

Peter Hendy, who is also the commissioner for Transport for London (TfL), envisages a “century of cycling” in Britain as part of the Vision 2035 report that CILT recently released. He issued a call for a “step change in cycling”, including improved safety on Britain’s roads, in a speech made at the CILT Cycling Lecture in London.
“Cycling is a subject that is close to my heart in my dual roles not only as President of the Chartered Institute of Logistics and Transport, which enhances the careers of thousands of professionals in the transport sector, but also as this city’s Transport Commissioner with Transport for London and with a boss who is famously a cycling enthusiast.
“Wearing these two hats – two complementary roles – gives me, I believe, a fascinating and privileged perspective on the growing role of cycling as a 21st century solution within a broad range of public and private transport choices.”
The lecture was the first ever to be focused on cycling and was used to emphasise the importance of making cycling a leading mode of transport in the country. The activity has noticeably risen in popularity in Britain over the last few years, in the most part due to the success of the British Olympic cycling team in Beijing three years ago.
The Barclays Cycle Hire scheme in London has been a great success and has proved popular with city workers as well as travellers in recent times. Visitors to Earl’s Court hotels, London city hotels and Kensington apartments can hire bicycles all over the city, which makes it much easier to get to and from meetings or back and forth between the sights of interest. In London hotels West End addresses are amongst the most popular because they are so central, so all the main attractions in London are within a short bike ride away.
“I’d say that cycling has almost become ‘cool’ in the capital, and for some, like
in Paris, Amsterdam, or Copenhagen, bicycles are an urban fashion statement of youth and freedom, fitness and vitality – whether on a mountain bike, a flash road-bike, a folding bicycle or a Barclays hire bike.”
Mr Hendy said that the safety of Britain’s roads and paths needs to be improved if cycling is to become prominent in the country, but he also outlined the fact that cyclists and, indeed, drivers themselves need to be aware of the safety concerns surrounding cycling on the streets of Britain if it is to flourish.

 

What Happens When The Worst Happens?

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I was raised on worse case scenario planning. It’s in my blood. My mother is a professional worrier, who actually came up with a scenario that troubled her deeply that went something along the lines of:

“What if you are in Egypt and some man there teases your son until he cries and then hits him and then he hits the man and then he goes to Egyptian prison or beat up by an angry Egyptian mob?”

I can’t even compete with that level of virtuoso worrying. Thankfully, I am trying desperately hard NOT to worry about… whatever might go wrong. There are just too many things. I mean, I had heard that being airlifted out of certain areas of the world in order to get proper medical attention could cost upwards of $30,000. That is honestly more frightening to me than the idea of getting international travel insurance, especially when we are talking about growing our family.

Dwelling on the off chance that catastrophe will strike can be paralyzing,  but for those who are thinking of taking the leap into world travel need to understand, accidents will happen, wherever you are. Staying at home or traveling the world, getting hurt is just a process of rolling the dice on any given day, with every decision that you make.

That we decided to travel means that these accidents will happen far from places where we can expect to have an emergency room conveniently placed. You are lucky when you travel to parts of the world where the cost of health care is low but the quality of that care is high. That is uncommon. Most places in the world which have a high level of care come at a price, or, you get what you pay for. Meaning, the cost is low, but you may be put back together with bubble gum and duct tape (If you are lucky enough to have duct tape available wherever you might be).

This is why the wife forbids me from speculating about worst case scenarios. I can do it all day. It’s in my blood. I’m all worked up now. Time to start researching what sort of health care options there are available to us and go plan some sort of overland African safari. I’ll try not to think about Jackals and Tigers and stuff.

I’ll let my mom handle that.

photo:

 

Vancouver Is A Walking City

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I’ve been to more than my share of cities, and always appreciate when I encounter one where you can be deposited almost anywhere and still get around without a car.

Seattle, Dallas, these are driving cities. You need to know your destination when you want to explore those cities. It makes the discovery of new, unexpected things very difficult, cumbersome. Vancouver is the breath of fresh air that reminds us why cities don’t have to be impossibly hard to deal with.

After we were engaged, we made our way north to Vancouver and checked into a hotel just a stone’s throw away from downtown. A little bed and breakfast, cozy, romantic, just what we needed. The next morning, without any sort of guidebook or the ability to connect to the internet that exists today, we just… walked. Our only real objective was that we wanted to hit Chinatown. And we did that, with no directions, asking for help, nothing but walking joyfully and paying attention to signs.

Even the areas that seemed like slums that exist between Chinatown and downtown feel safer in Vancouver, or maybe it was that we felt invincible, knowing we were headed to our destination. Maybe we were just punch drunk in love.

Chinatown in Vancouver is as authentic a Chinatown experience as you can have without going to New York City. Possibly more, considering the vast Asian population that exists in that part of the world, the closest you can get to Asia and still be in North America. Vendors peddling every dried fish you could imagine and a dozen that you could not imagine. We purchased a small set of bowls and a set of chopsticks after an hour or two spent window shopping, then made our way through Gastown, which we didn’t register until we had been there for awhile, simply assuming we were in a “super pretty part of town”.

The next day, we went west, and rented bicycles and took them around Stanley Park. The combination of being in love along with endorphins turned Vancouver into a magical city for us, and the fact that we could reach all of these places by foot, head off to a movie, drink copious amounts of coffee in whatever cafe we choose, sit around monument steps eating sandwiches while watching jugglers juggle and old men play chess, well, it made the entire place worthwhile.

Did I mention I love Vancouver?

photo: kennymatic